Newsletter

Holiday season adornments are attractive to all creatures. The ornaments, foods, gifts, wrappings, ribbons, lights and plants are all curiosities for pets. Pets investigate new items by sniffing, tossing, chasing, and finally by tasting. A few precautions are necessary to avoid the holiday crowds at the veterinary hospital.

The most common problems this time of year are stomach or intestinal disturbances caused by pets eating the holiday feast or other novelties. Scraps from the table can cause gastrointestinal upset and even predispose pets to life-threatening pancreatitis. Bones can get stuck in the mouth or perforate the intestines and should be avoided. Chocolate is poisonous to cats, dogs, and birds. Plastic wrap and aluminum foil (coated with good-tasting juices) are enticing but can cause intestinal damage (and even blockage) if eaten by the pet.

Other sweet treats, like gum and hard candies, can also make your pet ill. Sugar-free candies and gum are made with xylitol, a sugar substitute that can cause a drop in blood sugar, depression, loss of coordination and seizures in your pet. Xylitol is also linked to liver failure in dogs. Be sure to keep all candies, chocolate and other sweets out of your pet's reach. If you believe your pet may have ingested chocolate or candy, call your veterinarian immediately.

Be sure to properly dispose of leftovers and wrappers. Feed pets their usual diet. Treats formulated similarly to the pet's regular diet are generally healthy and safe. Also keep in mind (while cooking) that pets may not know about hot stoves or to stay out from underfoot. Keep pets away from the stove so they don't get burned or get hot foods spilled on them.

Several decorative plants are poisonous. Mistletoe and holly can cause stomach upset with vomiting and diarrhea. The berries of these plants are attractive, easily swallowed, and potentially fatal if consumed. Poinsettias, like the leaves of most any plant, can also cause stomach upset. Use artificial mistletoe and holly; keep other plants out of your pet's reach.

Be sure Christmas trees are secured so that pets cannot pull them over. Omit preservatives from the tree-stand water and cover the water so pets don't drink it. Don't spray snow on the tree unless it is labeled for pet consumption. Angel hair is spun glass and is irritating to both the inside and outside of your pet. Even glass ornaments and ornament hooks have been chewed and swallowed. These objects can cause problems from stomach upset to damaged intestines. Low-hanging ornaments are a real temptation, as are tinsel and electric lights. Decorative lights and electrical wiring can cause shock or burns when chewed, soremember to unplug holiday lights when pets are unattended.

Holidays have lots of activity going on. Be sure doors are not left open as guests come and go. Indoor pets inadvertently left outside could be injured by frostbite, cars, or other animals. Ice-melting chemicals and salt on sidewalks and roads can severely burn foot pads and should be washed off right away. Also, watch that guests don't leave interesting objects, such as chocolate, ribbons, stocking stuffers, or other illicit treats, within your pet's reach.

Holidays can also be as stressful for your pet as they are for you. Large gatherings of unfamiliar people may cause your dog or cat unnecessary stress and worry. If your pet does not interact well with strangers, keeping him or her in a separate room during the festivities may help keep your pet relaxed and worry-free.

Don't leave food items under the tree with an unsupervised pet; the wrapping, ribbon and enclosed gift are probably not compatible with your pet's digestive system. Ask Santa to put gifts out of your pet's reach so your pet won't beat you to them on Christmas morning.

When choosing a gift for your pet, consider the pet as an individual. Cats enjoy lightweight toys they can bat around, catnip toys, scratching posts, and kitty perches. Dogs like balls, chew toys, and things they can carry around. However, beware of toys with parts, such as bells, buttons, string, yarn, or squeaky parts, that can be detached and swallowed. Watch how your pet handles a new toy until you are sure it is safe. Some dogs treat a stuffed toy like a friend and carry it around and sleep with it. Others will tear them up and eat the stuffing and get into trouble. Also, if there is more than one pet in the household, consider all the pets before buying for any one of them. A one-inch diameter toy for a cat is fine, but a puppy in the household may swallow it and possibly require surgery to remove it.

If your pet does get sick, consult your veterinarian before giving any medications. Many of the over-the-counter drugs, such as acetaminophen - Tylenol(r) and Excedrin(r) and ibuprofin - Advil(r), Motrin(r), are toxic for animals even though they are safe for us. Don't wait to see if your pet gets better. If your pet is acting sick, consult your veterinarian.

Health Benefits Associated With Spays & Neuters

Spaying or neutering pets is a common procedure, and most pet owners have probably had some experience with having the procedure done on animals they have owned.

Aside from the inconvenience of heat cycles and/or roaming tom cats, there are medical benefits associated to having your pet spayed or neutered. The direct health benefits of spaying or neutering are significant for the pet. If female pets are spayed before their first heat cycle, the risk of developing mammary tumors (breast cancer) is significantly reduced.

Spaying female pets eliminates the risk of pyometra, an infection of the uterus. This disease can be very serious, even fatal, in female pets. Male pets can also benefit. Neutering eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of prostate disease.

Spaying or neutering can indirectly help prolong a pet's life as well. When pets are spayed or neutered, their tendencies to roam or fight are greatly reduced. This prevents the pets from getting lost, stolen, hit by cars, or contracting a contagious disease.

Cats that fight are at risk of contracting a serious disease called feline leukemia. This disease, which affects the immune system of the cat, can be passed from feline to feline through saliva or blood. Cats also run the risk of contracting feline immune deficiency virus when they fight. This disease is very similar to human HIV. It can lie dormant in the cat for quite a while, and when activated, can cause the cat's immune system to function improperly.

Spaying or neutering dogs can help keep them under control. Dogs that have not been spayed or neutered are more likely to wander away from home. While running loose, they have a chance of being hit by a car, getting lost, stolen, or taken to the animal shelter.

Even though spays and neuters are considered routine surgery, there is nothing routine about any abdominal surgery performed under general anesthesia. Most veterinarians consider spays and neuters to be major surgery, especially when spaying older animals that have had several heat cycles or have had litters.

Veterinarians and humane societies advise pet owners to have their pets spayed or neutered. The medical advantages have been proven. Complications resulting from these procedures are rare and pets recover from surgery very quickly. Often the day after surgery, animals are bright and alert, sometimes seeming as if nothing had ever happened.

The cost of the procedure varies depending upon the species, sex, size, and age of the pet.

Obesity is the most common nutritional problem of cats. Since most cats are relatively inactive, it is not surprising that up to 40 percent of all cats seen by veterinarians are overweight. Obesity puts a considerable number of cats at risk for associated diseases such as lameness, feline urologic syndrome, diabetes mellitus, skin problems and cardiac disease. Due to the amount of fat that is present in the body of an overweight cat, x-rays are sometimes difficult to assess and surgical procedures can be difficult to dangerous.

It is tempting to tiptoe around the issue of feline weight reduction. One reason is lack of client acceptance of the problem. The realization of owning an obese cat can sometimes prove awkward if the owner is also markedly overweight. More important to remember, however, is that although the "lose weight fast" mantra is appealing to humans, it can be deadly for cats. Rapid weight loss in cats is associated with hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease), most commonly seen in obese, spayed female cats undergoing a short-term "crash" diet.

Traditional high-fiber (up to 25 percent) weight-loss diets can also cause problems, such as excessive stool output, poor skin and coat condition and decreased nutrient digestibility and absorption. Weight loss can be achieved safely, however, with a low-fiber, low-calorie diet. Research has found that a cat can lose an average of 1.5 percent of their body weight per week over a 16-week period with no adverse effects. Ultimately, it is important to work with your veterinarian in order to find a diet that your cat likes, as well as having the ability to help your cat lose weight safely.

Another weight-loss tool on the horizon is L-carnitine. Obtained from diet or synthesized by the body, L-carnitine facilitates "fat-burning" and is already used in humans. Following studies, it has been concluded that a lipid solution of supplemental L-carnitine accelerates weight loss and may increase the rate of fatty acid oxidation in cats. It has been cautioned, however, that this effect requires further investigation. As with human diets, there is no magic feline diet pill!

Before embarking on a feline weight loss program, it is important to have your veterinarian assess your cat's body condition, current health condition and medical history. Weight reduction in cats is a tough problem. Research confirms that cats can lose weight safely with the proper diet, but with so many foods to choose from, it can be difficult to go it alone. Use both the advice from your veterinarian and the choice of your cat (if he won't eat it, then it might not be such a good choice!) to determine the right food. Just remember: as cats lose weight on a well balanced portion, they become more active and playful and have a healthier appearance. This is a win-win situation!

Dogs often bark (or howl) when they are exposed to or encounter something new. It is difficult to determine what makes an individual dog bark. The stimulus can vary from dog to dog and from household to household.

Barking can be attributed to various situations. Some include (but not limited to):

• The need for attention and affection
• Hunger or thirst
• Unusual or unfamiliar sounds
• Other animals entering their territory
• Humans (usually strangers) entering their territory
• Separation from members of the family (particularly their favorite person)
• Separation from members of their pack (other dogs or humans for that matter)
• The sight of their prey
• A heightened state of anxiety
• Medical problems - older, senile dogs in particular

PREVENTION

Socialization at an early age is extremely important. The puppy should come into contact with new people, new situations, and new environments. Animals that never leave their house or yard often tend to vocalize when in a new environment. Early leadership training is also important. The owner should have complete control and dominance over the dog.

The puppy should get accustomed to staying alone. He (or she) should be crate trained at an early age. This will allow him to become adjusted when the owner eventually leaves for a prolonged period of time.

Do not encourage the barking! Paying attention to him while he is barking only reinforces the behavior.

TREATMENT

Before this annoying habit can be broken, the owner must exhibit leadership and control over the dog. Obedience training is essential and a head halter collar is useful.

Exercise is important and allows the dog the opportunity to interact with other animals, new situations, and discover new environments.

A barking dog is told to "sit / stay." When the dog is quiet, he is given a reward. At each training session, the dog should remain quiet for a longer period of time before the reward is given.

The first five reasons for barking are rarely the cause of "excessive" or "annoying" barking. They are usually specific to certain situations and are short-lived. The sixth and seventh reasons are those most likely to be considered problem barking, and they are not unrelated. Barking for companionship can turn into barking for reward: The dog barks to get its owner’s attention, the owner comes to the dog to tell it to be quiet, perhaps petting it or playing with it, and goes away again. The dog is quiet while the owner is there, but has learned that barking will bring the owner back. Thus the system of barking and reward is established.

A solution, again, is to spend more time with your dog and have it near you rather than tied up somewhere separate from you. However, if your dog is separated from you and it begins to bark to get your attention, do not immediately go to the dog. It must learn that barking will not guarantee your presence. By spending more time with the dog at regular intervals not instigated by barking, your dog will feel more assured that it will get sufficient attention from you and will not have as much inclination to bark for companionship.

How do you teach a barking dog to distinguish between friends and strangers?
The solution is to show the dog that certain individuals (garbage collectors, mailmen, milkmen) are, indeed, friends. To accomplish this, the dog has to be introduced to these people and given an opportunity to get to know them. While this is not always practical, it is nonetheless a potential solution. As you restrain your dog, stop delivery people and have a short conversation with them, letting them meet the dog for a brief period. Repeat and lengthen the process over the next few weeks. Eventually, your dog should accept these individuals and all should be well until your regular mailman is sick and another person takes his place.

What do you do with a dog that barks at guests in your house?
One solution is to take the dog to another room and give it something to do. Or, if the guest comes to your home often and you don’t want to have to lock up the dog every time, work to gradually introduce one to the other. Have the guest get on his knees, pet the dog, offer it a treat, and more or less become part of the family. Let your dog establish the speed at which this relationship develops: Don’t force it, or your dog may become alarmed by a "pushy" guest.

How do you deal with a dog that barks at the phone?
This is simply a case of a dog that has been rewarded for barking at a ringing phone. When the dog barks, someone eventually answers the phone and it stops ringing. To stop your dog from doing this, have a friend call and let the phone ring until the dog loses interest. Continue over a period of days, and in time, the dog will learn that barking at the phone accomplishes nothing.

Finally, what do you do with the dog that barks while you are away from home?
There are several possible solutions. One is to act as if you are leaving, then stand outside the door until the dog barks. When it does, return and scold verbally. Another is to get your dog a companion—but you might end up with two barkers! A third is to use a sound-activated tape recorder. When the dog barks, the sound switch turns on the tape recorder for a minute. The tape plays your voice scolding the dog. Some systems can repeat as many as 45 times while you are away.

The best way to reduce your dog’s barking is to pay attention to the reasons for the barking. If you can satisfy the dog’s needs, barking will automatically be reduced. By the same token, learned barking can be extremely persistent. Internal rewards can cause the cycle to go on for years.

The best solution to barking is prevention, so be aware of the possibilities and work to stop problem barking before it starts.

Scientists believe that the predecessor to the first land carnivores was most likely an animal called Miacis. Miacis lived about 55 million years ago and fossils show that the animal looked somewhat like a weasel.

The cat family split from other mammals about 40 million years ago, making them one of the oldest mammalian families. The best-known cats of pre-history were probably the saber-toothed cats (Smilodon) that lived during the late Pleistocene era (1.8 million to 10,000 years ago). Saber-toothed tigers, forerunners of the modern cat, were named for their sharp dagger-like canines. Able to kill full-grown elephants, these animals were plentiful in Europe, Asia, Africa and North America. Their small brain, large body and cumbersome teeth led to their extinction about 10,000 years ago.

Although the saber-toothed cat has no close living relatives, paleontologists reconstruct how Smilodon looked by comparing its bones with those of large cats living today. Often called a saber-tooth tiger, Smilodon was not actually related to the tiger, although it may have behaved a bit like one. Scientists have determined that the saber tooth's skeleton was not built for speed. Very powerful front legs and a short tail indicate that it probably ambushed its prey, goring it with those fearsome canine teeth and leaving the victim to bleed to death.

Wild cats are believed to have evolved in Africa, and due to continental drift, eventually arrived in South America. About 2 million years ago, when North America and South America joined together, the cat made it's migration northward.

Evolutionary biologists agree that the domestic cat is a cross between Felis sylvestris (European wildcat) and Felis lybica (African wildcat). Of all the cats in existence, the domestic cat is the only one that has agreed to live with humans. Due to this fact, the domestic cat has been given the name "Felis domestica."

Cats were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 BC in order to control the rodent problem in their cities. Since the Egyptians stored grain in woven reed baskets, rodents were able to chew through these baskets and eat the grain. With no devices, poisons or traps to fight the increasing rodent population, rats and mice swarmed through the cities. During this period, a small yellow cat with black stripes (the predecessor of today's domestic cat) began coming into the cities in order to feast on the rodents. The Egyptians welcomed these visitors and encouraged them to stay. The Egyptians named their new domestic animal "mau."

After realizing that cats had helped them solve their rodent problem, the Egyptians began holding them in high regard. Not only did the cat gradually take up residence in Egyptian households, but came to be revered and worshiped as being godlike. Bast, the Egyptian goddess of fecundity and beauty was depicted with the head of a cat. This beautiful goddess was the symbol of light, heat and solar energy. It was believed that she controlled fertility, cured illnesses and took care of the dead souls. According to Egyptian history, cats were held in such high regard that their export was forbidden, and the penalty for killing a cat was immediate death.

Cats were mummified after death and buried in sanctified plots, often with supplies of mummified mice for the afterlife. In 1890, one such plot was found to contain the remains of 300,000 cat mummies. The mummies were wrapped in expensive colorful cloth and enclosed in engraved wooden cases. Many of these mummies were distributed to museums around the world.

Since they reproduced prolifically and lived long and healthy lives, the Egyptian cat population began to swell. For a long time, Egypt had held a strict rule that cats could not leave the country. Despite this rule, the Egyptians began selling cats to the Greeks. After several years of breeding, the Greeks started selling cats to the Romans, the Gaels, the Celts and later to the Europeans. Resulting from trade relationships between Asia and Europe, cats were being exchanged for silk. The Asians loved their cats and began breeding them right away. Several distinct breeds of cats were produced in Asia, such as the Siamese, the Balinese, and the Himalayan.

Previous to the introduction of the domestic cat, the only mouse hunters in ancient Europe were semi-domesticated weasels and skunks. The Romans, and to a certain extent, the Greeks, introduced the domestic cat to the rest of Europe. In European countries, the cat was not worshipped but kept as a companion as well as a rodent hunter. However, by the time the Black Death appeared in the 11th century, cats were once again held in high esteem for their rodent killing abilities.

The Middle Ages in Europe were the worst times for cats. Cats were believed to be agents of the devil, and thought to possess magical powers. Pope Gregory IX declared the cat to be a "diabolical creature" and authorized a total persecution. Persons who kept cats were suspected of being witches, and were put to death along with their feline companions. With rat extermination becoming urgently necessary, cats were beaten, killed and driven away from towns and villages.

In Tudor England, cats were burned as a sign of both Protestant and Catholic heresy. During the inquisition, the burning of heretics, Jews, witches and cats were just some of the atrocities that were committed. By the 15th century, the European cat was on the verge of extinction, thus allowing the population of rats to increase. For lack of cats, more than two thirds of Europe died from the Bubonic plague.

Eventually the witch-hunts ceased and cats once again became highly prized and beloved household pets.

Cats were first domesticated over 5000 years ago and have since become one of the most popular pets in the world. The first record of domestic cats in Great Britain dates back to 936 AD. By the mid 18th century, cats were fairly abundant in the United States. By the late 1800s distinctive breeds were being established and cat shows held, with the long-haired breeds being especially popular.

Although the North American continent had many varieties of wild cats, there had been no history of domestic cats preceding the arrival of the Europeans. The first domestic cats were imported in order to control the rodent population in the settlements. Eventually, cats became quite popular and the first American breed, the Maine Coon Cat, was established.

Domestic cats now live on every continent except Antarctica and have been bred into more than fifty distinct breeds.

What It Is

Anaphylaxis is a potentially fatal allergic reaction to a foreign agent such as insect venom, vaccines or drugs. This allergic response involves the release of chemical mediators (histamine, serotonin and eicosanoids) from particular body cells called mast cells or basophils. There are two forms of anaphylaxis: anaphylactic reactions and anaphylactoid reactions. Both result in similar clinical symptoms.

Anaphylactic reactions are immune-mediated reactions. This means that pre-exposure to a particular antigen (medication, vaccine, snake venom) is necessary. After initial exposure, the animal produces antibodies (to that agent) that bind to the mast cells. When the dog or cat is exposed to the same agent at a later time, these antibodies activate the mast cells to release the chemical mediators, thus producing an inflammatory response.

Anaphylactoid reactions are identical to anaphylactic reactions in terms of clinical symptoms; however, anaphylactoid reactions are not immune mediated responses. A single exposure to the foreign agent can cause clinical symptoms.

In both conditions, activation of mast cells results in a number of physiological changes affecting respiration and circulation, causing a life-threatening emergency.

Agents That Can Cause Anaphylactic Reactions:

• Snake Venom
• Insect Venom
• Certain Vaccines
• Antibiotics
• Other Medications

Symptoms

Symptoms of anaphylaxis usually occur within one hour following exposure to the agent. Reaction may be restricted to the site of contact with the agent - local swelling and redness associated with insect stings or may be generalized, in which the whole body swells. Dogs suffering from systemic anaphylaxis are usually restless and excitable.

Clinical manifestations of anaphylaxis generally include nausea, vomiting, circulatory collapse, rapid heartbeat, edema of the lungs and some neurological signs.

Clinical symptoms can vary from one animal to another, depending on the "shock organ" of the species. In dogs, the shock organ tends to be the liver and gastrointestinal organs; in the cat, the shock organ is generally the lung.

Eventually, if left untreated, anaphylaxis can lead to collapse, convulsions, coma and eventually death.

Treatment

Systemic anaphylaxis constitutes a medical emergency. Circulatory collapse associated with results in oxygen deprivation to major organs. If symptoms of anaphylaxis occur, call your veterinary hospital immediately.

Complications

Complications associated with anaphylaxis can be severe and result in long-term or irreparable damage. Since the liver is considered a major "shock organ" in dogs, liver damage and eventually liver disease, can result. Intestinal damage with peritonitis often necessitates surgical removal of large sections of the intestine. A decrease in circulating platelets can cause internal hemorrhaging.

Prevention

Unfortunately, anaphylaxis usually occurs unexpectedly and very rapidly. The key to prevention is to avoid the agent that produces the reaction. However, in regard to vaccine and drug reactions, there is no reliable prevention. With vaccinations; however, it is probably best to observe your pet for a half-hour after administration.

Please follow these guidelines to protect your pet during the winter months.

Keep your cat inside. Outdoors, cats can freeze, become lost or stolen, or be injured or killed. Cats who are allowed to stray are exposed to fatal infectious diseases, including rabies.

During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes choose to sleep under the hoods of cars, where it is warm. Then, when the motor is started, the cat can be injured or killed in the fan belt. To prevent this, bang loudly on the hood of your car and wait a few seconds before starting the engine. This will give a cat the chance to escape.

When walking your dog on snow or ice, never let him or her off the leash. This is particularly important during a snowstorm. Dogs frequently lose their scent in snow and ice and easily become lost. They may panic in a snowstorm and run away. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season.

Thorougly wipe off your dog’s legs and stomach when he or she comes in out of the rain, snow or ice. Check his or her sensitive paw pads. Paw pads may bleed from snow or ice encrusted in them. Also, salt, antifreeze or other chemicals could hurt your dog if he or she ingests them while licking his or her paws.

If you own a short-haired dog, consider getting him or her a warm coat or sweater. Look for one with a high collar or turtleneck. While this may seem like a luxury, it is a necessity for many dogs.

Never leave your dog or cat alone in a car during cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold. Your pet could freeze to death.

If your dog is sensitive to the cold due to age, illness or breed, take him outdoors only long enough to relieve him or her self.

Puppies do not tolerate the cold as well as adult dogs. They may be difficult to housebreak during the winter. Patience is necessary.

If your dog spends a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities, increase his supply of food. Increasing the amount of protein is particularly important in order to keep his or her fur thick and healthy.

Antifreeze, even in very tiny doses, is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Because of its sweet taste, animals are attracted to it. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle. To prevent accidental poisonings, more and more people are using animal-friendly products that contain propylene glycol rather than the traditional products containing ethylene glycol. Do not hesitate to call your veterinarian if you suspect that your pet has been poisoned.

During the winter months, never shave your dog down to the skin. A long coat provides more warmth. Remember that such a style will require more frequent brushing due to dry winter air and static electricity. When you bathe your dog, make sure he or she is completely dry before you take her out for a walk.

Make sure your pet has a warm place to sleep. This should be far away from all drafts and off the floor. A dog or cat bed, with a warm pillow and blanket, is ideal.