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A puppy likes biting and chewing on almost anything that enters its world. Just as with jumping, biting between litter mates is their style of play. Biting also teaches them how to use their main hunting tool, their teeth. Unfortunately, this behavior often carries over into their interactions with the members of their new home.

Puppies have very sharp teeth and a bite or nip can hurt. Along with inflicting pain, a dog bite can be terrifying to small children.

There are several methods that are used to eliminate this unwanted behavior.

Holding the Mouth Shut
The simplest method for handling this behavior is to very, very quickly grab the puppy's mouth and hold it shut. While holding the mouth shut, say a single, stern "No" in a low tone. Holding the mouth closed is usually done by placing the thumb over the top of the puppy's nose and the fingers below the bottom of the jaw.

Holding the mouth closed for four to five seconds is sufficient and the puppy usually whines. Don't try to cause them pain; there is no need to firmly squeeze the mouth. After releasing the puppy's mouth, don't make any further fuss, but go on with whatever you were doing.

It will take a few sessions for the puppy to catch on, but the animal will soon put together the facts that the bite instantly causes his mouth to be held shut.

It's not recommended to bring children into this form of discipline. Children can get hurt or they can hurt the puppy.

Startle Response and Redirection
As soon as the puppy bites down, make a sudden, abrupt, high-pitched, loud "yelp" sound. This imitates the sound that a littermate would make if bitten by the puppy. This sound should be so sudden and sharp that the puppy is immediately startled and stops the behavior. If done correctly, the puppy immediately removes his mouth and looks bewildered. At that point, quickly substitute a toy (such as a ball) for the puppy to chew on.

This method redirects the puppy's biting behavior to the ball. The puppy learns that it is no fun to bite; however, chewing the toy is ok. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times during the puppy's play period. If the "yelps" make the puppy more excited, it's best to try another approach.

Stop the action immediately and dramatically leave the room when the puppy bites. This is certainly a method children can use. After multiple times the puppy will learn that every time she bites, she loses her playmate, and that's no fun at all.

Important! No matter what method you use, do not entice the puppy to bite you. Games like tug-of-war and waving your hands in front of the puppy may encourage him (or her) to bite.

The West Highland White Terrier, or the "Westie," as the breed is commonly known, are descended from Cairn Terriers and Scottish Terriers. The breed is believed to have originated in the Argyll region of Scotland in the 1800s. Col. Edward Donald Malcolm is credited with being the first to develop the breed, though some sources say it was the 8th Duke of Argyll who originated the Westie. The breed was originally known as Poltalloch Terriers, named for Malcolm's home.

The Westie's shaggy white coat is the result of years of selective breeding. According to some breed histories, Malcolm used a pack of light-colored working terriers for hunting. During one trip, a dog was mistaken for a fox and shot. Malcolm decided then to breed only white dogs that could be easily identified while on the hunt. The breed is small, with an average height of about 11 inches at the withers and an average weight of between 15 and 22 pounds.

Because the Westie is descended from working terriers, it is energetic, intelligent, and curious. The Westie was originally used to hunt small game, like rabbit and squirrel. Westie's living in a home require a brisk walk and some play time each day to prevent boredom. However, Westie's tire easily and require about 13 hours of sleep each day. Owners should be surprised if they see their Westie settle down for a nap after a vigorous play session. To keep the Westie's coat soft and white, frequent brushing is needed. The breed is susceptible to dry skin, and too much bathing may exacerbate this problem. A bath once a month should suffice.

Westies are independent and bold (some might call them stubborn), but make excellent companion dogs. Because of their fearless nature, Westies consider themselves to be guard dogs, though their small stature makes them less than intimidating. They get along well with other animals, though owners should exercise caution when introducing a Westie to cats living in the household.

Winter is a difficult time for pets. Outdoor animals need extra care in order to cope with the cold weather. Special attention should also be paid to older animals, young puppies, and animals with short coats.

It is important for all animals to be properly nourished during the winter months. Outdoor animals require about 25 percent more food during the winter months than during warmer months. The increase in food is necessary to generate enough heat for the body to stay warm. Indoor animals often require less food, since exercise is generally limited.

Pets require adequate shelter during the cold weather. Outdoor dogs should have an insulated dog house that is protected from the wind. The dog house should not be too large (the heat that the dog generates is used to keep him or her warm) and the opening should face south or southeast. A plastic flap should cover the entrance, especially during windy days. Straw, hay, or blankets make excellent bedding material.

Cats generally do not find dog houses very appealing. A small entrance flap (cat door) to the basement of the house, or to the garage, will provide an access to shelter during the cold weather.

Outdoor animals cannot eat snow for a source of water. Clean, fresh water must be provided several times each day. A water heater is a practical solution; however, it must be safe and installed properly.

During the cold weather, cats often take shelter under the hood of cars. A warm engine is a comfortable area for a cat to rest. When the car is started, the cat risks severe injuries from the fan belt or blades. Before starting a car, knock on the hood or raise it in order to conduct a safety check.

Paws should be checked regularly during the winter months. Snow and ice should be removed from the fur located between the toes. Damp paws should be thoroughly dried. Moisture that accumulates between the toes can cause sores. De-icing chemicals and salt are common irritants. If these products are commonly used, animals paws should be bathed regularly.

Antifreeze is extremely toxic if ingested by animals. The sweet taste is often appealing to cats and dogs. Antifreeze that is spilled should be cleaned up immediately.

Pets often experience dry skin during the winter months. Lack of humidity tends to dry the skin. Frequent grooming and brushing helps stimulate the production of oil from the skin glands. A topical humectant spray can be purchased at the hospital to help moisturize the skin and keep the coat shiny.

Occasionally an animal is accidentally left outdoors for an extended period of time in extremely cold weather. As a result, frostbite may occur. The most common areas for frostbite are the tips of the ears, paw pads, and the tip of the tail. The frostbite area should be bathed in warm, not hot, water, and the animal then should be taken to a veterinary hospital.

Kindness is the best care for animals during the winter months. If the temperature drops below 15 degrees F., the pet should be moved indoors. If an animal is shivering or refuses to play, this generally means that he or she is too cold and should be brought indoors.

With warmer weather approaching, plenty of pet owners are thinking of getting into shape before hitting the beach. But what about pets? Obesity is a growing problem among both cats and dogs. And much like humans, too many extra pounds can have far-reaching consequences for our animal companions. In this report from the Veterinary News Network, Dr. Jim Humphries discusses the health problems that can occur if your pet is overweight and shares tips on how you can get your pet's weight under control.

The idea of "training" your cat may either amuse or frighten you, but don't worry - it is possible. According to experts, it isn't that tough to teach your cat to accept a carrier, and once you do, you'll find lots of practical reasons for containing your kitty.

Some key pieces of advice for acclimating any cat to a carrier are to give your cat plenty of time to adjust and to put cat treats, tasty food or favorite toys inside the carrier in order to entice him.

The biggest benefit of crate training is safety. You'll know where your cat is and he can still be part of your activities. No more "'fraidy cats" getting loose when workmen come to your house. No more hissing fits that annoy or frighten your visitors. No more contortionist cats crammed under the seat of your car.

More and more people are traveling with their cats, and for them, carriers are travel necessities. Loose cats can distract a driver, fall out of windows, get injured by loose objects or get wedged under the accelerator or dashboard. Also, many motels allow pets only when they are crated.

Crating the cat is important even for just a short trip around the block. Obviously, a good many cats and people are injured in auto accidents because their cats aren't restrained. Also, rescue workers may be clawed or bitten by loose cats in car accidents.

Another benefit of crate training is acceptance of a cage if the kitty must be boarded, hospitalized or shipped.

Crates are also useful for training cats that misbehave when separated form their owners. A carrier not only keeps these cats from getting into trouble, but also often serves as a safe haven - a cozy, contained space where the cat has privacy and a place of his own. Of course, a crate at home must be used humanely and not abused. No pet should be left alone in a crate for more than a couple of hours.

Many cats find crates stressful at first. That fear can usually be overcome with patience and treats. You don't have to face the grueling training task unprepared. Many pet shops offer pamphlets on crate training; some even have training videos. At the very least, when you're buying a cat carrier, ask for the manufacturer's sales sheet describing the crate's features. It usually explains what size carrier to buy, various uses and the basics of crate training.

Here are some basic steps for crate training your cat:

Place the carrier (with its door open) in a room where he can explore the crate on his own. Put food and toys inside to draw his attention. Leave the crate alone for several days

After the cat adjusts to the open crate, you can lock him inside. Entice him to enter the carrier with food or treats, and then latch the door. The first time the cat enters the crate, he should not be locked inside for longer than 10 minutes. Gradually increase the amount of time he is locked inside. Do not let the cat out if he cries or hisses; that only reinforces bad behavior.

Put favorite toys or soft bedding (particularly an old towel, blanket or sweater that carries the owner's scent) inside the crate in order to help make him feel more secure. In larger crates, you can even put a litter box and water bowl. When kitty settles down, re-open the door to the carrier so he can come and go at will. Once your cat accepts the carrier, the next step is to get him used to movement. The crate should be picked up and carried around carefully. Talk soothingly and give treats.

Slowly acclimate kitty to traveling in your car. At first, just sit in the car with him, and then take him on short errands. Each time you put your crated kitty in the car, increase your travel time. Make the experienceas pleasant as possible - using toys and treats. Don't limit your car trips to visits to the veterinarian's office and boarding kennel.

Admittedly, for some cats, slow training doesn't work. A quick method of getting a cat into a carrier is as follows: Sit the carrier up-ended so its open door is at the top. Hold the cat firmly by the scruff of the neck and gently lower him into the crate. Be sure to support the cat's rump with your hand.

In addition, not every cat needs to travel in a carrier. For a trip to the vet, for example, an especially aggressive cat may do better enclosed in a pillowcase or cloth laundry bag. A docile cat may be content in a wrapped soft towel on the passenger's lap. Owners must evaluate their cat's individual personality and do what they think is best.

Cat carriers (pet carriers) come in all sizes, designs, materials and prices. Pet stores, veterinary hospitals, catalog companies and online outfits offer large choices. Cardboard carriers are not recommended, as most cats can find ways to slip out and escape.